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Mera Peak, Amphu Lapcha Pass & Island Peak

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Duration

26

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Tour Type

Daily Tour

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Group Size

10 people

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Languages

English

Overview

An exciting mountaineering expedition to the summit of Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m), two of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, for breathtaking panoramic views of five of top ten world’s highest 8,000m mountains on earth; Everest, Lhotse, Kanchanjunga, Makalu and Cho-Oyu, through the crossing of the high spectacular and challenging Amphu Laptsa Pass in the Himalayas- an ultimate diverse climbing adventures leading to a true mountaineering experience.

Mera Peak climbing can be a pivotal ascent for all those trekkers, experienced or amateur, who dream of conquering the mountain. The adrenaline rush trek commences from Lukla, passing through the wilderness of the Khumbu region to Zatar La pass (4,610m) before heading towards Mera base camp (4800m).

Mera Peak and Island Peak offer a great Himalayan summit thrill with vastly different summit challenges. Mera Peak’s summit route is a long gradual extreme altitude climb, never quite steep enough to get too scary but completely exhilarating. Island Peak,  though of a lesser height, is slightly more skill demanding and exposed, with a 200m vertical ice wall to scale on fixed rope to reach the summit and may involve crossing crevasses with ladders. Both summit attempts require rope up, ice axe, crampons and mountaineering boots.

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HIGHLIGHTS

  • Climb Mera & Island Peak with proper acclimatization and contingency days
  • Stunning views from the summits of two of Nepal’s classic “trekking” peaks
  • Cross Amphu Lapcha Pass
  • High and wild trekking in the remote Hingku valley
  • Trekking through the Everest region to Namche Bazaar
  • Discover and learn about Sherpa Culture
  • Learn to use technical climbing gear
  • Follow magnificent glaciers
  • Experience Nepal’s spectacular wilderness
  • Explore the sights of vibrant Kathmandu including World Heritage Sites

Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1300m)

Upon arrival at the Kathmandu, Brothers Team representative will meet & greet you and transfer you to your hotel. In the evening, we get to try Nepalese cuisine at a welcome dinner hosted by Brothers Team. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 02: Kathmandu Sightseeing & Preparation

Today, after breakfast, our program will be sightseeing to the most significance culturally, religious historic places around world heritage sites. The tour guide assists us explore the sacred Hindu Temple of Pashupatinath - biggest Hindu temples of Lord Shiva in the world, the famous “Monkey Temple” Swyambhunath-an ancient religious complex atop a hill in the Kathmandu valley and Buddhist shrine Buddhanath-an ancient largest Buddhist Stupa in the world that dominates the skyline. After completion of the tour, there will be trekking briefing orientation, guide introduction and final check of climbing equipment for trek to ensure well prepared for the exciting journey ahead.

Day 03: Flight to Lukla and Trek to Chutang (3020m)

After an early morning flight of about 40min, we land at Lukla, the gateway town to Mt Everest region. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world, culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. Upon arrival here, our rest of the crews for Mera peak will be waiting to meet us and begin our trailhead heading eastwards the higher above the spectacular Dudh Khosi, leaving for the busy trail to Everest Base Camp. The Trek follows through hamlets and wood yards until we reach a thick forest of Silver fir, birch pastures and rhododendron and pine forests. There are many small streams with numerous places en route, the whole of this area referred to as Chutanga which is a summer pasture. We spend the reminder of the day resting, acclimatizing and exploring the nearby villages.

Day 04: Chutang to Chhatrwabuk/Thuli Kharka via Zatrwa La (4,620m)

Trekking today is a steep climb to cross the Kalo Himal Ridge in the Nau Lekh range, from here we enter into the Hinku valley, leaving the Khumbu valley and there is a feeling of untouched remoteness. A steep uphill trial marked by some ancient collection of Buddhist chortens. We continue traversing to reach Zatrwa La pass (4610m) welcomed by traditional Buddhist style with prayer flags. After celebrating our first pass, in a clear day, it looks very impressive the views across the Dudh Kosi towards Karyolung and the Lumding Himal. Moreover, we get our first glimpse of the scenery across the rolling foothills of the Hinku river Valley. From here less than an hour, we reach Thuli Karkha where we spent the well-deserved night’s rest.

Day 05: Chhatrwabuk to Kothe (4182m)

Another spectacular day awaits to get admired beautiful hills dotted with rhododendrons-Nepali national flower. The trek is relatively short and downhill. The trail traverses ridges above the Hinku Valley, enjoying grand views of the South Face of Mera Peak. A pleasant walk leads through the beautiful forests of Himalayan pine and rhododendron, bamboo along a ridge to the Hinku River all the way up to Kothe.

Day 06: Kothe to Thangnak (4356m)

Today we realize entering into the high mountains of the Himalaya when we continue walking along the Ridge of Hinku, the first time seeing and enjoying River stream view on the destination surrounded by towering view of Mera Peak and other mountains. There are superb views of Kyashar (6,769m) and Kusum Karguru (6,367m). The walk is a steady and gradual climb up the valley, for the first section we walk near the river on a rocky trail. Then later on climb up to grassy yak pastures (kharka) above river level. We pass through the Gondishung, it is worth visiting an ancient monastery and a summer herder’s settlement on the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. We trek for some time to reach Thagnang, which is a summer grazing area with some primitive lodges and little shops.

Day 07: Thangnak to Khare (5045m)

Leaving for Khare, our hike heads eastwards and walk up slowly in destination acclimatizing and enjoying the surrounding scenery. Two and a half hour climb through the adventurous lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to walk on the large pasture of Dig Khraka, the dramatic views of the surrounding peaks continue to open up. The hike, then leads to a steep climb through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers. We cross the stream and follow the trail across the boulder-strewn hillside for just over an hour. The steep climb brings us to Khare that provides an excellent view of Mera Peak.

Day 08: Acclimatization and Preparation day in Khare(5045m)

Before progressing further, today we have a rest day for acclimatization, exploration and practice of essential ice-climbing course under the guidance of our experienced climbing guide. After breakfast, we head up to the start of the Mera Glacier by climbing a steep ridge that we will later follow to the Mera La pass. Here we will take the opportunity to practice skills needed for glacial travel and organize a session on the glacier. First, we instruct techniques on how to use crampons, rope and ice axe etc. Thereafter, we shall provide training on peak climbing techniques and the proper ways of using climbing gears such as the ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include how to use the ropes to go up and down. This helps us prepare for the summit of Mera. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training/skills for this trek to Mera Peak Base Camp, we strongly believe that some training experience will boost your confidence and your climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit as well as to fully enjoy the experience. Later in the day, we return to Khare for over night’s sleep.

Day 09: Khare to Mera La (5415m) to Base Camp (5350m)

Today will be an exciting day as if it is the first day of mountaineering where three hours over a boulder-strewn path up to the glacier, leading up to Mera La. After reaching the snout of the glacier where we gear up fully putting on crampons, harness, mountaineering boots and walking with ice axes. Our freshly learned crampon and ice axe techniques will come in useful while climbing into the glacier. This exposed pass serves as a camp before climbing up to Mera’s high camp the next day. The views from the pass and first experience of mountaineering are spectacular. We first climb up to the Mera La (5,410m) and back up the ridge and then onto the back of the Mera base camp to settle in for a good night’s sleep.

Day 10: Base Camp to High Camp (5800m)

Today, we head to high camp from base camp; the steep rocky trial leads to the high camp at altitude of 5,800 meters through Mera la pass. It provides an excellent launch pad for the final climb to the summit. Having gained the Mera La, the route turns left (south) and follows easy angled snow slopes. After a short distance an area of crevasses is come in. Under normal conditions, these can be walked around very easily, although looking into their deep, dark depths is always impressive. The crevasses soon give way to slightly steeper but open snow slopes that lead without difficulty to the high camp. Upon arrival at the High Camp, we are rewarded by an excellent panoramic views of Everest, Makalu and the Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The setting sun casts an unbelievably magic light on these awesome mountains. We can also see the most of the route to the summit. We get an early night in to prepare for tomorrow’s summit bid.

Day 11: Mera High Camp to Summit and back to Base Camp (5350m)

We wake up early with hot cups of tea and start heading out into the cold on our way to the summit of Mera Peak. The going is relatively straight forward as we make our way up the Mera glacier and set a slow, steady pace. The route is still non-technical as we climb slowly but surely higher into the ever-thinning air. From the high camp to the summit bid will be made early in the morning, and take around 4 to 6 hours to get to the summit. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may attach to a fixed rope depending on conditions. The summit is only a few meters away. Shortly ahead is that moment we have all been working so hard to achieve: the summit itself. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. The 360 panorama is perhaps one of the most impressive as well as incredible views of Baruntse (7129m), Haling (7319m) and NauLekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. We are far enough back so that the smaller peaks do not obscure the views, but at the same time are deep in the heart of this fantastic mountainous vista. We spend some time taking it all in before we finally descend back down to Base Camp for our overnight stay. This is a very long but satisfying day.

Day 12: Reserve Day

We have allocated an extra day as a spare day or contingency day, set aside in case of problems with the weather or acclimatization. This extra day definitely gives some flexibility and use for a second summit attempt. This is also a buffer day in case of any other delays experienced along the way such as Lukla flight. If everything has gone smoothly and you succeed to climb on the summit day, this day is used to covering for the next day trek. If this day is not to utilize, as a contingency day, then it will use as a free day in Kathmandu.

Day 13: Trek to Honku Valley (5035m)

After a successful expedition to Mera peak, we walk today through the remote valley of the upper yak pastures. Throughout the route, we will enjoy panoramic views of the Himalayan valley. It is almost a shock to realize that the two majestic mountains we are heading straight towards being none other than Everest and Lhotse. Overnight at Honku Valley.

Day 14: Trek to Panch Pokhari (5200m)

From Honku Valley, you will today trek to Panch Pokhari which offers perfect mountain views, rich culture and real adventure. This area also bestows a combination of well-off cultural heritage, incomparable beauty and natural diversity. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 15: Rest Day for Acclimatization at Panch Pokhari (5200m)

Rest day at Panch Pokhari for acclimatization as well as preparation for Island Peak climbing, overnight at tented camp.

Day 16: Trek to Amphu Lapcha La base camp (5400m)

Amphu Lapcha pass is challenging to cross where our experienced guides will fix rope on the rocky crest and compact blue glacier ice from our south Amphu Lapcha base camp. We set up our camp for overnight.

Day 17: Trek to Chhukung (4750m) via Amphu Lapcha pass (5700m)

We move to Chhukung today after crossing Amphu Lapcha La Pass (5700m). It is located unshakably beneath a huge rock wall that joins Nuptse with Lhotse. From here, you will also see magnificent views of Amadablam (6856m), almost surely, the most pictured peak in Nepal.

Day 18: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (4790m)

We will start ascending early to arrive at the Island Base Camp and our route now gets difficult once we arrive at the foot of the pointed icefall below the peak. Great care has to be taken while ascending the wall to reach on the edge which leads to the summit. After getting to the summit, you will move down to the Island Peak Base Camp.

Day 19: Island Peak High Camp (5600m)

In the early morning, we will begin our climbing to arrive at the High Camp and fix our tent overnight stay, and acclimatize. Climbing up to the High Camp requires a great caution, as it is technically challenging peak.

Day 20: Summit Island Peak (6160m) and Back to Base Camp (4790m)

Today we begin our climb with a predawn, lighting our way by headlamp up the rocky trail through rock gorge leading to glacier pass of the summit. Our guide will fix a rope up using crampons and ice axes whenever necessary into glacier of crevasses. We follow the guide's footsteps.
We will enjoy a beautiful sunrise on the edge of the glacier. A short steep snow slope leads to cross an exciting ridge to the summit. It is unforgettable moment to be on the summit, we will have time for celebrating enjoyment of reaching successfully on the summit, observing the astounding panoramic views of mountains and snapping enough photos before descending back to Base Camp.

Day 21: Trek to Pangboche (3900m)

Today we traverse the Khumbu River on a wooden suspension bridge and walk following the Imja Khola to the community of Pangboche trek for around 5 hours today.

Day 22: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3400m)

Today, we will walk beside the river and, after coming across we make our way up through birch and rhododendron forest to Tengboche. From Tengboche, we move down to the bridge above the DudhKoshi at Phunki Tenga and then we return back to Namche. We walk for around 5 hours. Tonight at guest house in Namche.

Day 23: Trek to Lukla (2866m)

Following the track, we arrive at Lukla scaling different Sherpa villages crossing a suspension bridge above Thado Kosh. For about 45 minutes, we go up to accomplish the whole trail and we reconfirm flight ticket and see off to local porters. Overnight at local guesthouse.

Day 24: Fly back to Kathmandu

After flying for 35 minutes, we arrive in Kathmandu from Lukla in the morning and move back to the hotel. Rest of the day we can lighten up.

Day 25: Leisure Day in Kathmandu

Today, you have rest day for relax or you can also go for shopping in Kathmandu or you can do anything you like to by yourself. Overnight at hotel.

Day 26: Fly back home

Leisurely breakfast at hotel, and Brothers Team will transfer you to the airport for your return flight to home.

Included/Exclude

  • All ground transportation by private vehicle in Kathmandu
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Half day guided cultural tour in Kathmandu as per
  • itinerary
  • Monument entry fees
  • Domestic air travel (KTM-LUKLA-KTM)
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea & coffee) during the trek
  • Comfortable accommodation on teahouse/lodge & camp during the trek & climbing period
  • Trekking/Climbing peak permit fees
  • Necessary climbing gear & equipment, Trekking/Climbing Guide & Sherpa helper
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry fee
  • Exclusive medical kit bag
  • All government and local taxes
  • Return air tickets from your home country
  • Nepal visa fee
  • Personal equipment for climbing & trekking (can be hired in Kathmandu)
  • Personal insurance for travel & climbing
  • Tips for guide, porters & climbing/trekking crews
  • Personal expenses like shopping, laundry etc
  • Personal services during trek like hot shower, mobile phones
  • Personal travel & trekking gear – warm clothing, shoes, backpacks etc
  • Emergency evacuation and medical expenses

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from $4,880

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